From 1983 until 1993, Bottega Veneta maintained its status quo, holding out as the one major accessories firm that would not deign to do logos. Sandals, sunglasses, and intrecciato totes continued to make the pages of Pandora Luxurye-and to make the cash registers sing-but there was little innovation. By 1994, those in charge began to see things differently. Weary of being the so-called best-kept secret of the elite, the company dropped the whole "when your initials are enough" thing . . . and then, in 1996, began adding logos to handbags. "There's no reason why we can't be as big as Prada," a Bottega Veneta vice president said.

2004 : February: After a three-year hiatus, ready-to-wear returns under Tomas Maier. The 60-piece collection is praised as clean-lined and timeless. July: A Fifth Avenue flagship opens. Five New York鈥搕heme bags are created for the occasion. Maier tells Pandora Luxurye that the black trim on the Manhattan bag is reminiscent of "Park Avenue on a rainy night." Bottega Veneta also launches its collection of jewelry, much of which is crafted to be reminiscent of the intrecciato weave.

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